Between a rock and hard place

Our Indian summer came to an abrupt end with heavy rain accompanying us from Port Macquarie to South West Rocks, 40km east of Kempsey, near the Arakoon State Conservation Area.

You’ve all read about the dreadful flooding at Bellingen and Coffs Harbour. We were spared at South West Rocks, but gale force winds made our first night a bit scary with the van shaking and threatening to ‘walk’.

However it stood firm and next day we visited historic Trial Bay Gaol, built of local granite in 1886. The idea was to use inmate labour to build a breakwater nearby to form a safe harbour for shipping. Talk about being caught between a rock and hard place! Heavy seas washed away most of their work before completion.

I thought Trial Bay got its name from prisoner trials, but it’s actually named after the brig Trial. It turns out that in 1816, 13 convicts escaped from Sydney’s Hyde Park Barracks, hijacked the Trial from her anchorage near the Sow and Pigs in Port Jackson, and sailed up the coast only to come to grief on the rocky shore that now bears the ship’s name. The gaol was closed down in 1903 and reopened as an internment camp for Germans living in Australia at the outbreak of World War I.

Pub with no people

Despite rain for most of our stay, we managed to get out and about to take in the magnificent scenery including the lighthouse at Smoky Cape, the highest elevated lighthouse in Australia.

You’ve all heard about the pub with no beer. Well for an hour or so one afternoon we found ourselves at the pub with no people. Believe it or not, we had the whole Riverside Tavern on the Macleay River to ourselves (if you don’t count the 20 or so ‘roos munching on
the grass outside).

Kangaroos in large numbers were frequent visitors to our park and Carol insisted I check the amenity block in case one got in and might be waiting to pounce on her. I think we’ve spent too much time in the city -- she wouldn’t even hang out the washing because a kookaburra with a malevolent eye was perched on the line.

Among friends in Korffs Harbour

On to Coffs Harbour, where, during our two-day visit it was an absolute delight to catch up with Jan Johnson. Jan, who tragically lost her husband, my good mate Viv Jenkins to cancer on 7 February, invited us home to dinner with two of her close friends Colleen Cartright and Sandi Page (pictured from left, Colleen, Carol, Sandy and Jan).

Viv and I worked together on assignment on the Sunday Telegraph back in the 1970s and again in PR the 80s and 90s. He was a terrific photographer, loyal friend and raconteur who retired in 1998 to Coffs with Jan, and is sadly missed.

It was a privilege to meet the engaging and inspiring Colleen and Sandi who have been stalwarts in Jan’s support network. At the end of an evening of lively discussion we promised to get together again at the first opportunity, hopefully when Jan is on chef duty, yum!!

A bit of trivia: did you know the name Coffs Harbour is a misspelling of “Korffs Harbour”? According to Colleen, that was the name given to the area in 1847 by naval architect and shipbuilder Captain John Korff. Shouldn't the proper spelling be restored in the man’s honour? After all, India has changed Bombay to Mumbai, Madras to Chennai and Calcutta to Kolkata!

An impromptu get together

On our last night in Coffs we received a pleasant surprise – a telephone call from Carla Little, our daughter Louise’s mother-in-law, inviting us to dinner at the motel where she and husband John were staying en route from Brisbane to Port Macquarie.

Carla and John have decided to settle in Port Macquarie for their retirement. It was wonderful to see them again and talk about the future (pictured, Nigel and Carla [rear], and John and Carol).

Our next destination is the Solitary Islands Marine Park resort in Yuraygir National Park. In the meantime, a Safe and Happy Easter to all!